The Dutchess!

I have been told on more than one occasion that I am not a delight to be around in hot weather. Apparently I do nothing but complain and whine when it is over 78 degrees. And yes, I am aware that for most people 78 degrees is not considered extremely hot. Nonetheless, my intolerance of heat meant that I had little interest in taking the terrific bike lane from Ventura to Ojai recently. Instead, I headed to The Dutchess, where I have been dying to visit for months, in an air-conditioned car along with my friend Siobhan and her daughter, Ella. I had been following The Dutchess’ charasmatic baker, Kate Pepper on Instagram for some time and dreamed of the day when I could taste her alluring breads and pastries at the restaurant.

I first learned about this dreamy place when my husband and I spent a day in Ojai last January (when the weather was blessedly cool!). We just happened to be in this sweet small town one day prior to the bakery/cafe’s first day, and witnessed staff being trained and furniture being set up. We admired the warm hued wood tables and long bar, and the opulent bouquets of flowers. I pressed my face against a window and sighed at the beautiful decor. I could sense that this was going to be a special place.

Siobhan, Ella, and I arrived at The Dutchess just in time for an early lunch, around 11:00. A line of people snaked along the front counter which made it easy to check out all of the baked goods, sandwiches, and other items which were piled high behind glass. My glee at the sight of so many delectable-looking things to eat reminded me of how I felt at gazing at the breathtakingly sumptuous gowns at a Christian Dior exhibit a few summers ago. I was awestruck.

This abundant display of food at the Dutchess made it difficult to make a choice. Therefore, I hedged my bets and got a sandwich to eat there, and a baguette and two baked goods to bring home. My sandwich bore little resemblance to one I love having in France which is simply sliced ham on a buttered baguette. The Dutchess’ version had generous slices of thinly sliced ham and flavorful, nutty Swiss cheese, arugula, pepperoncini, roasted red peppers, and salami. In a word, it was fantastic, with savory, salty, and vinegary notes balanced by the fresh, chewy baguette in every bite. Our table was in a cool room just beyond the outdoor, covered patio behind the cafe. We were surrounded by lush plants and flowers and were made to feel that we could have remained there all afternoon.

Ella and Siobhan, being kind women, invited me to taste the cookie and chocolate croissant they were sharing. The crisp chocolate chunk cookie had a brown buttery flavor. I liked the chocolate croissant’s flaky crust and fine cocoa center. In order to make our drive all the way to Ojai worthwhile, I brought home an epi (a baguette in the shape of a shaft of wheat), frangipane croissant, and a plain croissant. All were excellent.

What will make me return to The Dutchess, besides the very good food, are its setting and its staff. The cashier was well-versed on each dish and drink. When we returned later in the day after checking out the shops, including spectacular Bart’s Books, she suggested that I try the freshly brewed black ice-tea which was flavored with a touch of rose petals. It was an unusually delicious thirst quencher, helping me (almost) forget that the temperature had warmed up to 86 degrees. Siobhan and Ella were pleased with their cappuccino and espresso orders as well, which were served by an amiable young man who welcomed us back. We all remarked that we could have spent hours in the beautiful center room, with its comfortable booths and dusty pink velvet pillows, homey antique furniture, and stunning floral wallpaper.

I’ve heard from a fellow food-lover that dinner at The Dutchess is also a treat. She gushed about the biriyani, a lamb dish with aromatically spiced rice, raisins, and ginger, all encased in a delicate puff pastry. According to this friend, this dish was “absolutely divine and an exquisite blend of flavors.” Her review means that now I must get myself back to The Dutchess for breakfast, lunch, perhaps a drink at the bar, and then dinner. This packed outing (including a change of clothing) is going to be challenging if I get there via bike. Stay tuned!